The Catskill Chronicle

By Jude Waterston

The reasons for my disdain of leftovers are myriad. Perhaps foremost is my firm belief that variety really is the spice of life. A new taste sensation experienced as often as possible is a joy. I much prefer to eat at a restaurant offering a vast selection of appetizers or sharable “small plates” than having to focus on one entrée with its predictable components of starch, vegetable, and protein. Better still is dinner of Spanish tapas, Chinese dim-sum, Middle Eastern mezze, or an array of Italian antipasti. Forget “less is more.” My dictum is more is more!

In Manhattan, I live in a tiny studio apartment so small that the kitchen is part of the only existing room (other than the bathroom), which also serves as bedroom, living room, and dining room. Against a wall is a sink, tiny counter, petite stove, and a refrigerator (wedged under the counter) just a smidge larger than those you would find in a college dorm room. There is no freezer to speak of, just an open compartment large enough to snugly fit two ice cube trays. This situation means that anything I cook, from a pot of soup to a savory stew must be eaten within days of its creation since I can’t freeze individual portions to be had when the mood strikes. As much as I enjoy a steaming bowl of New England clam chowder, I’m not interested in consuming it three days in a row. Thus, I end up giving away much of the food I cook for myself, which makes a lot of my friends and co-workers happy, but doesn’t do much for my bank account.

On the other end of the spectrum of those who are leftover leery, you will find my brother Buzz. An innovative and experimental cook with an ample freezer in his refrigerator as well as a massive free-standing freezer in his basement, he cooks in abundance specifically to allow for leftovers. He thinks nothing of composing a meal of days-old bits and pieces of the exotica he finds on the shelves of his fridge. Dinner may comprise 3 pieces of okra, a cup and a half of mixed grain pilaf, a lone stuffed cabbage roll, a few slices of spicy Thai flank steak, and a thigh from a pot of chicken cacciatori.

If Buzz is the king of leftovers, the reigning queen is my cousin Marylin. A Weight Watcher’s devotee for years, she has perfected a system that allows her to enjoy and indulge while keeping quantity in check. Whenever she dines out, she eats only half of the food on her plate and takes the rest home in a doggy bag. At home, when she cooks steak or chops early in the week she makes plenty and then transforms the leftover meat into various guises. A Sunday roast may show up sliced as filling for fajitas on Tuesday and again on Thursday in a chunky stew.

This past weekend Marylin and her husband, Sherm, were part of a birthday celebration for my dad, who turned ninety-one and asked to have a family luncheon at Marbella, his favorite Spanish restaurant in Queens. There were nine of us around a long table laden with food and pitchers of sangria. As the meal was winding down, it became clear that there were going to be a lot of delicious tidbits leftover on everyone’s plate; the portions had been enormous. A procession of plates worked their way toward Marylin’s end of the table. As the waiters began clearing they were instructed to wrap up those three broiled baby lamb chops; the pile of paella rice; a half dozen shrimp and two scallops from the Mariscada en Salsa Verde; a large chunk of sirloin; and even the shell of the lobster tail from the Paella con Langosta because the little legs had not been sucked clean of their sweet meat. I can’t help wondering how Marylin will divvy out this diverse lot of leftovers during the coming week.

Fine for those who are not bored by leftovers. I am, with the exception of one dish that I find I can prepare and eat two or three times over the course of a week. I’m not sure why my chicken enchiladas are palatable in repetition, except to say that I adore the prominent flavors, those of cumin, cilantro, a haunting touch of ancho chile powder, and the ever-so-slight gaminess of chicken thighs. I used to make a more complicated version of enchiladas using poached chicken breasts and many more steps to reach the recipe’s conclusion. Then I developed a simpler version using some short-cuts and bottled salsa. I am offering both here and you can pit them against each other. Either way, I hope you find you can savor the leftovers the following day, or if not, eat like a pig and finish off the whole of it in one sitting.

Chicken Enchiladas in a Snap

Makes 6 enchiladas

For enchilada filling:

1 pound (3 large) chicken thighs

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon dried oregano (preferably Mexican)

½ teaspoon ancho chile powder

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

¼ teaspoon ground coriander

¼ teaspoon ground paprika

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

½ cup good quality(mild or medium heat) bottled tomato salsa

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

 

For assembling enchiladas:

6 small flour tortillas, preferably whole wheat

1 ½ cups homemade (or bottled) tomato sauce

1/3 pound shredded Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

To prepare filling:

Lay a chicken thigh flat on a cutting surface. Trim any excess fat, then cut the thigh into thirds length-wise. Cut each third into bite-size strips. Repeat with remaining thighs and place meat in a shallow bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and toss to coat. Add all of the spices, salt, and lime juice. Toss well. Let sit for 15 minutes so flavors meld.

Heat remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add chicken and saute, stirring, 3 – 4 minutes, until almost cooked through. Add salsa and cook an additional 2 minutes. Turn heat off and add ¼ cup cilantro. Stir to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning.

 

To assemble enchiladas:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Pour ¾ cup of the tomato sauce in the bottom of a glass baking dish (or lasagna pan) large enough to hold the enchiladas in one layer and spread evenly with the back of a spoon. Place a tortilla on a flat service and fill with some of the chicken mixture. Roll up to enclose chicken and place the tortilla in the pan seam side down. Continue until all the chicken and tortillas are used. Spoon the remainder of the tomato sauce evenly over the top of the tortillas and sprinkle evenly with the cheese. Bake for 15 – 20 minutes until hot and bubbly. Garnish with ¼ cup chopped cilantro and serve immediately.

 

Chicken Enchiladas (for those who prefer breast meat and have a little more time on their hands)

Makes 6 – 8 enchiladas

For enchilada filling:

1 ½ pounds split chicken breast on bone

4 cups chicken broth

3 tablespoons olive oil

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon chili powder, preferably ancho

¼ teaspoon paprika

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

¼ teaspoon ground coriander

¼ teaspoon salt

1 medium red onion, peeled, halved, and thinly sliced

1 garlic clove, finely minced

1 tablespoon finely chopped pickled jalapeno peppers (or more, to taste)

¾ cup homemade (or bottled) tomato sauce

Juice of 1 lime

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro

For assembling enchiladas:

6 – 8 small flour tortillas, preferably whole wheat

1 ½ cups homemade (or bottled) tomato sauce

1/3 pound shredded Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese

 

In a large saucepan, bring 4 cups of broth and 1 cup of water to a boil. Add chicken breasts and lower heat to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, 6 minutes. Remove pan from heat and let stand, covered, until chicken is cooked through, about 18 – 20 minutes. Transfer chicken with tongs to a plate and let cool. Reserve 4 cups of the broth for another use (or freeze) and set aside the remaining 1 cup. When cool enough to handle, remove skin from chicken breasts and pull meat from the bones. Shred the meat and place in a bowl.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onions and sauté, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes, until aromatic. Add all of the spices and the pickled jalapenos and sauté, stirring, 30 seconds. Add the tomato sauce and cook 1 minute. Add the shredded chicken and reserved cup of broth and simmer, stirring, 3 minutes until heated through and well combined. Check for seasoning and add salt, if necessary. Remove from heat and add lime juice and cilantro. Stir to incorporate.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and prepare enchiladas by pouring ¾ cup of the tomato sauce in the bottom of a lasagna pan and spread evenly over the surface with the back of a spoon. Place a tortilla on a flat service and fill with some of the chicken mixture. Roll up to enclose chicken and place the tortilla in the pan seam side down. Continue until all the chicken and tortillas are used. Spoon the remainder of the tomato sauce over the top of the tortillas and sprinkle evenly with the cheese. Bake for 15 – 20 minutes until hot and bubbly. Garnish with additional cilantro, if desired. Serve immediately.