The Catskill Chronicle

By Jude Waterston

Who among us has not had the disconcerting experience of sauntering through a vegetable garden in late summer and been privy to the sight of a grotesquely humungous zucchini, the size of a man’s arm, laying woodenly in the hot soil? A repellent vision if every I’ve seen one.

Each summer, everyone you know and plenty you don’t are growing zucchini in such abundance you would think it was the most exciting, robustly flavored vegetable in the world. Yet I would bet any money that if you asked a variety of people what their favorite vegetable is, nary a soul would respond, “Why, the zucchini, of course!”

Zucchini is easy to grow and often a single plant will produce quite a few more squash than anticipated. Lots and lots more. Unfortunately, the larger the zucchini grow, the tougher, seedier, and more watery they become. That’s why it’s suggested that summer squash be picked before they mature, or they’re apt to be bland and tough-skinned.

Zucchini are often described as “delicate,” “subtle,” and, as one cookbook author offers, “…having a knack for absorbing and reflecting, for making everything around it seem more interesting.” This implies, does it not, that the zucchini is not a terribly fascinating vegetable? So why is everyone producing them in such quantity?

Perhaps it is because the little devil is extremely versatile, even if it doesn’t excite the palette in quite the same way as a juicy, sun-warmed heirloom tomato; sweet cobs of yellow and white corn; or a deeply flavorful magenta-colored beet. Like the Food Network’s Iron Chefs confronted by a massive table laden with thousands of mushrooms (if only!) or peas in their pods, I challenged myself a summer ago to tackle the less than glamorous zucchini. As the squash season nears, I offer the fruits (as it were) of my labor, complete with photographs I took while the zucchini went through its metamorphosis before emerging as a mighty delicious star of each dish prepared, not a component or second fiddler to anything else. I await the really tiny, comically miniature yellow and green zucchini for a baby zucchini and fresh basil frittata that is next on my list to try this season. Stuffed squash blossoms may follow. For all I know this unassuming vegetable may just become habit-forming.

Baby Zucchini and Basil Frittata

Serves 4

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

7 tiny green and yellow zucchini (about ¾ pound), scrubbed and sliced on the diagonal

8 large eggs

1/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

8 large fresh basil leaves, stacked and sliced into thin ribbons

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a 9-inch nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the zucchini and cook, stirring and flipping the pieces occasionally, until the zucchini are nicely browned, about 12 minutes. In a large bowl, beat the eggs, cheese, basil, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Lower the heat to medium-low. Pour the mixture over the zucchini. With a spatula, lift the edges of the frittata as it sets to allow the uncooked egg to reach the surface of the pan. Cook slowly until the eggs are just set but still moist in the center and the frittata is lightly browned on the bottom, about 8 – 10 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the broiler. Slide the skillet under the broiler and cook the frittata, watching carefully, until the top is set, puffed, and golden, about 3 minutes. Cover the pan with a plate and flip the frittata over. Cut into wedges and serve hot or at room temperature.

Grilled Baby Zucchini with Greek Flavors

Serves 4

Fruity extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice, and fresh herbs such as dill and mint call to mind the flavors of the Greek isles. I have combined them here, along with pungent feta cheese, in a vinaigrette to be poured over hot-from-the-grill baby zucchini.

6 small zucchini, (or a combination of zucchini and yellow squash)

¼ cup + 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint

3 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Trim off the ends of the zucchini and slice each squash in half length-wise. Lay them on a tray cut side up and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Season them with salt and pepper and set aside. In a small bowl, whisk together ¼ cup of olive oil, lemon juice, mint, dill, and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. Prepare a grill or you can use an oiled stove-top grill pan. Fire is ready when you can hold your hand about five inches above rack for just 3 or 4 seconds. Lay the zucchini on the grill cut side up and grill for 8 minutes. Turn the zucchini over and grill for about 8 more minutes, or until charred, yet somewhat firm. Remove from grill and slice, on the diagonal, at 1-inch intervals. Lay the sliced zucchini out on a platter in one layer. Re-whisk the vinaigrette and correct seasoning, if necessary. Ladle the vinaigrette evenly over the warm zucchini. Scatter the crumbled feta over the top and serve immediately.

Zucchini Bread with Olive Oil

Makes 1 loaf

1 ½ cups sifted all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

A few grindings of fresh nutmeg

2 large eggs

1 cup (or a little less) sugar

½ cup olive oil

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

½ teaspoon almond extract

1 cup grated zucchini

½ cup walnuts, finely chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Brush an 8x4x3” loaf pan with melted butter or coat with vegetable spray. Resift the flour with the baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. Add the nutmeg. Set aside. In a large mixing bowl beat the eggs until foamy. Add the sugar, blending well. Stir in the oil, vanilla, and almond extract. Gradually add the dry ingredients until thoroughly incorporated. Fold in the zucchini and nuts. Spoon the batter into the pan. Bake 50 – 60 minutes and test for doneness. Remove bread from the oven and cool in the pan on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Remove to the rack and finish cooling.

Zucchini Carpaccio

Serves 4

This is a simple and refreshing salad that is a perfect accompaniment to grilled chicken or steak. Using a mandoline, I cut the zucchini length-wise into long, thin ribbons, which makes for an elegant presentation. You could also use a good swivel vegetable peeler to cut the zucchini if you do not have a mandoline. Either way you want the zucchini cut quite thin.

3 small, slim zucchini (about 4 or 5 inches long), preferably a mix of yellow and green

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

¼ cup extra-virgin

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives

About 2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano

1 dozen very small cherry or grape tomatoes, halved on the diagonal

Wash zucchini and snip off ends. With a mandoline or vegetable peeler carefully slice the zucchini, length-wise, into very thin ribbons. Place the slices in a shallow medium sized bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste until blended. Stir in the mint and chives. Ladle the vinaigrette over the zucchini and toss well. Spread the ribbons out on a shallow platter. With a vegetable peeler, shave the Parmigiano-Reggiano into thin slices. Scatter the slices evenly over the zucchini. Scatter the halved cherry tomatoes over the zucchini and serve immediately, garnished with a bit more fresh mint if you like.

Zucchini Fritters

Serves 4

1 ½ pounds (3 medium) zucchini, coarsely grated

2 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill

3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh Italian, flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint

½ cup (4 or 5) finely chopped scallions, white and light green part

4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

2 eggs, beaten

½ cup all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Place the grated zucchini in a colander and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt. Toss, then let sit for 1 hour. Dry zucchini well between sheets of paper towels. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Place zucchini in a large bowl and add scallions, feta, dill, mint, parsley, and eggs. Mix well. Sift the flour over the top, stir well to combine, and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When oil/butter mixture is bubbling, drop tablespoons of the batter, about four or five at a time, into the skillet. Do not overcrowd. Cook until golden brown, 2 minutes per side. Drain on paper towel and place on a baking sheet to keep warm as you make two more batches, using the rest of the butter and olive oil. Serve hot.